{"id":3088,"date":"2019-01-24T00:52:43","date_gmt":"2019-01-23T23:52:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/albicillaexplorer.com\/?p=3088"},"modified":"2019-01-24T00:53:45","modified_gmt":"2019-01-23T23:53:45","slug":"birding-boquete-quetzals-becard-christmas-traffic","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/albicillaexplorer.com\/en\/birding-boquete-quetzals-becard-christmas-traffic\/","title":{"rendered":"Birding Boquete \u2013 Quetzals, a Becard and Christmas traffic"},"content":{"rendered":"
From the heat to the cold<\/h5>\n

We weren\u2019t the only ones who chose to spend Christmas 2018 in Boquete. As it turned out, Boquete is the place you go up to, for weekends and holidays. During Christmas, it is not only weekend tourists<\/em> from the nearby, and somewhat large town, David<\/strong>. Many Panamanians<\/em> and expats<\/em> living in Panama City<\/strong> spend the holidays in Boquete<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Why do people go up to Boquete<\/em>? Yes, you go up to Boquete. And you do that to get away from the lowland heat to \u201ccool down\u201d. Because of its elevation, some 1200 metres above sea level (m a.s.l.), its climate is cooler and much more pleasant than that of the lowlands (unless, of course, you prefer a sweltering heat!). It is not exactly cold, but cooler, especially in the evenings.<\/p>\n

The location and the climate also mean that there is a large community of expats<\/em> in and around Boquete<\/em>. This is possibly also why Boquete<\/em> boasts a very active cultural life with caf\u00e9s, restaurants and music \u2013 for example, the annual Boquete Jazz & Blues Festival<\/strong>, being the second largest jazz festival in the country after the Panama City Jazz Festival<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

And finally, a four-lane road from David<\/em> makes it easy to go from the lowland and up to the Boquete valley<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Of course, there are also many who come to get out into nature and experience the beautiful landscape around the nearby Volc\u00e1n Bar\u00fa<\/strong>. The volcano is the tallest point (3475 meters)\u00a0<\/em>of land in Panama. For many people, \u201cexperiencing nature\u201d appears to mean taking selfies and family portraits in front of a waterfall.<\/p>\n

\"Det

It is easy to get to Boquete – take the four-track road from David heading north and when you see the lighthouse you are almost there. Via Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Highland birding<\/h5>\n

The altitude was also the reason why we went to Boquete<\/em> for Christmas<\/em>, but not to cool down. Though 35-37 degrees Celsius<\/em> as we had down in the lowland is rather more than what a couple of Scandinavians<\/em> are used to. But Boquete<\/em> is a great starting point for seeing highland bird species<\/em>. And some of the species can only be found in western Panama<\/em> and neighboring Costa Rica<\/strong> \u2013 so-called endemic<\/em> species. Actually, it would be more correct to call them regional endemic<\/em>, or near endemic<\/em>, but that is for another time.<\/p>\n

Boquete\u2019s<\/em> altitude is also in the transition zone from foothills<\/em> to highland<\/em> and that results in a mix of species from both ecosystems and as a result, it is an excellent and very interesting area for bird watching.<\/p>\n

\"Prong-billed

Prong-billed Barbet has a very limited distribution. The species is found in cloud forests on the Caribbean slope of Costa Rica and Western Panama. Sendero Los Quetzales, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Der

It takes patience to check out all the trees of the valley. Finca Lerida, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Tinamou Cottage Jungle Lodge<\/h5>\n

It was, as mentioned above, Christmas<\/em>. This year our Christmas was a little different, as we were far from home \u2013 without our families and the traditional Christmas visits and Christmas dinners. On the plus side, there was no Christmas traffic<\/em> and we could pass the time looking at birds. It later turned out that we weren\u2019t quite rid of the Christmas traffic after all.<\/p>\n

On Christmas<\/em> Eve we were birdwatching near Tinamou Cottage Jungle Lodge <\/strong><\/a>where we would spend Christmas. It is a really nice place that used to be a coffee plantation. Now it is run primarily as a lodge and guide company by the Dutch owners, Hans<\/strong> and Terry<\/strong>, but they still grow coffee<\/em> on parts of the property.<\/p>\n

Terry<\/em> is a birder and bird guide and naturally she knows which species that are recorded on the property. With a list of 199<\/em> different species, it seemed like a good starting point for discovering the birds of western Panam\u00e1<\/em>.<\/p>\n

We stayed in the cottage The Great Tinamou, <\/strong>where we could enjoy sunrise with coffee and breakfast on the balcony. Coffee and breakfast are delivered daily in a basket at the front door, all we have to do is sit and enjoy the birds. There were among others Lesson\u2019s Motmot<\/strong>, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird<\/strong>, Buff-throated Saltator<\/strong> and Clay-colored Thrush,<\/strong> and we also saw Red-crowned Ant-Tanager.<\/strong><\/p>\n

A couple of times we saw Lance-tailed Manakin <\/strong>from the cottage, and very appropriately we also heard tinamou \u2013 though it was Little Tinamou<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Hver

Every morning, this Lesson’s Motmot would perch beneath our balcony. Tinamou Cottage, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\""Great

“The Great Tinamou” – our home for Christmas 2018. TInamou Cottage, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Number 200 – a Rose-throated Becard<\/h5>\n

There were many birds in the \u201cgarden\u201d and especially two places were great. One of them was right in front of the main building where you could quickly see many\u00a0tanagers<\/em>, thrushes<\/em> and woodcreepers. <\/em>The other place was a small clearing by one of the trails. Here there were many Tennesee Warblers<\/strong>, but also Black-and-white Warbler<\/strong>, Wilson\u2019s Warbler<\/strong>, Yellow-throated Vireo<\/strong>, Yellow-bellied Elaenia,<\/strong> Streaked Saltator<\/strong> and a beautiful male hummingbird Magenta-throated Woodstar<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

We also saw a Becard<\/em>, which we initially identified as a One-colored Becard <\/strong>because of the plumage\u2019s combination of two colors \u2013 black<\/em> and cinnamon<\/em>. But that’s two colors? Yes, that is correct, as the attentive reader has already noticed, the male One-colored becard<\/em> changes appearance from a cinnamon colored juvenile plumage<\/em> to a black adult plumage<\/em>. Meaning that the males are actually two-colored<\/em> for a time, and that was a very good identification <\/em>criterion when we were in Ecuador.<\/strong><\/p>\n

But the One-colored Becard<\/em> doesn\u2019t live in Panam\u00e1<\/em>, so it had to be a different species! The only one that seemed to match was Rose-throated Becard<\/strong>. But this species isn\u2019t common to the area and it wasn\u2019t on Terry\u2019s<\/em> list either \u2013 but none of the other becards fit the description. Luckily we managed to get a couple of photographs \u2013 they won\u2019t win any prizes \u2013 but enough to be able to document it and to be able to check the species with Terry<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Terry<\/em> wasn\u2019t in doubt when she heard our description and saw the pictures. She was very pleased with our observation, because not only was it a new species for Tinamou Cottage<\/em>, it was species number 200<\/em>.<\/p>\n

We saw the becard again the next day, and later it was also seen by the two Canadian birders<\/em> Angela<\/strong> and Kent. <\/strong>Fortunately it \u201chung around\u201d for a while, because we have later heard from Terry<\/em> that she has seen it as well.<\/p>\n

\"Dokumentationsfoto

Photo documentation of Rose-throated Becard – bird species number 200 for Tinamou Cottage. Tinamou Cottage, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/h5>\n
We saw Christmas traffic, but not the parade<\/h5>\n
Christmas traffic<\/h6>\n

As mentioned previously, we didn\u2019t quite avoid the Christmas traffic<\/em>. We got stuck in the middle of it on Christmas Day<\/em>. We were on our way to Boquete<\/em> together with Angela<\/em> and Kent<\/em> to eat at a restaurant the served a Christmas buffet<\/em>. As we approached the four-lane road we noticed that there were quite a lot of cars. We drove onto the road and right into gridlock.<\/p>\n

We were surprised by all that traffic. What was happening, had there been an accident, was there road work ahead or had everyone else just gotten the same idea as us?<\/p>\n

We had to devise a new strategy. Bente, Angela <\/em>and Kent<\/em> started looking for alternative routes down smaller roads. I got the car turned around so we could go another way round to Boquete<\/em>.<\/p>\n

It was an exciting drive along a road where high clearance and four-wheel-drive was a great advantage. We didn\u2019t have either but still managed to get to the restaurant. Parked the car and we got a seat at a table surprisingly short time of waiting and we celebrated Christmas<\/em> with our new friends.<\/p>\n

Chrismas parade<\/h6>\n

The Christmas buffet<\/em> consisted of what you might call traditional Christmas dishes, there were scalloped potatoes, roast meat and a cream dessert. It was certainly more Christmassy<\/em> than our humble dinner Christmas Eve<\/em> \u2013 Fusilli pasta and tomato sauce from a can.<\/p>\n

Rosevelt<\/strong>, our waiter explained the reason for the traffic chaos. He had previously worked on a cruise ship, which clearly showed in his mannerism (not that I have been on a cruise ship but I can picture it in my mind). But the explanation was the annual Christmas parade<\/em> in the city, which is a crowd-puller for Panamanians from near and far<\/p>\n

We probably should have been prepared for the big Christmas parade in Boquete<\/em>. Earlier in the December, we had actually read about it in the local weekly for the expat-city Ciudad del Saber.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The actual parade we didn’t see and the drive back to Tinamou Cottage<\/em>\u00a0was an even more bad road which on the map looked fine!<\/p>\n

\"Juleaften

On Christmas Eve we got the barely traditional Christmas menu Fusilli pasta and tomato sauce from a can.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Aftenmenuen

We enjoyed the evening on Christmas Day in good company with Angela and Kent. The menu was a more traditional American-panamanian Christmas buffet with all what belongs. Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Birds and bird sites<\/h5>\n

We can highly recommend visiting Boquete<\/em> and spending some days there. Bird-wise there are some good sites that are close to each other and which we visited more than once.<\/p>\n

Sendero Los Quetzales<\/p>\n

Sendero Los Quetzales <\/strong>in Parque Nacional Volc\u00e1n Bar\u00fa<\/strong> is a must<\/em>. The trail runs between 1800 \u2013 2000 m a.s.l. and passes through cloud forest<\/em> (one of our absolute favorite habitats). You don\u2019t have to walk the whole trail, which will bring you all the way to the western side of Volc\u00e1n Bar\u00fa<\/em>. Weather permitting, there is plenty to see the first 3-4 kilometres. But it can be very foggy, wet and windy.<\/p>\n

During our visit we saw among others White-throated Mountain-gem<\/strong>, Prong-billed Barbet<\/strong>, Acorn Woodpecker<\/strong>, Sulphuer-winged Parakeet<\/strong>, Buffy Tuftedcheek<\/strong>, Ruddy Treerunner<\/strong>, Tufted Flycatcher<\/strong>, Barred Becard<\/strong>, Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush<\/strong>, Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher<\/strong>, Black-throated Green Warbler <\/strong>and Yellow-thiged Finch<\/strong>,.<\/p>\n

\"En

A White-throated Mountain-gem foraging in the rain at the entrance to Sendero Los Quetzales. Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\""River

“River crossing”. Sendero Los Quetzales, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Pipeline Trail<\/h6>\n

Another good place is Pipeline Trail (not to be confused with Pipeline Road<\/em><\/strong><\/a> near the Panama Canal<\/strong>), which is situated a little lower (approx. 1600 \u2013 1900 masl) and is not as windy as Sendero Los Quetzales can be. Pipeline Trail is probably the best place to find Resplendent Quetzal<\/strong>. The area is privately owned and entrance is 3 USD.<\/p>\n

We saw Resplendent Quetzal<\/em> twice. The first was a male, the second a female, but we spent quite a lot of time before we succeeded. But we also saw other interesting birds like Green Hermit<\/strong>, Lesser Violetear<\/strong>, Red-faced Spinetail<\/strong>, Mountain Elaenia<\/strong>, Yellow-winged Vireo<\/strong>, Elegant Euphonia <\/strong>and Flame-throated Warbler <\/strong>and Ornate Hawk-Eagle<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"P\u00e5

On the way to find Resplendent Quetzal. Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"R\u00f8rledningerne,

The pipelines that have named the trail. Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Chiriqu\u00ed, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Kort

Shortly after we had given up seeing Resplendent Quetzal, Bente spotted this beautiful male on our way back. Pipeline Trail, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Finca Lerida<\/h6>\n

Finca Lerida<\/strong><\/a> is both a coffee farm and a hotel, and a great site for birdwatching. You don\u2019t have to stay at the hotel in order to go birding there. For 12 USD per person, or if you eat at the restaurant, you can use the trails that run through the coffee plantation and rainforest at 1700-1800 m a.s.l. \u00a0A visit here can quickly take 5-6 hours.<\/p>\n

We didn\u2019t see Resplendent Quetzal<\/em> at Finca Leridahere<\/span>, though it can be found in the area. However, we did see Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher<\/strong>. And also Red-headed Barbet<\/strong>, Dark Pewee<\/strong>, Brown-capped Vireo<\/strong>, Ochraceous Wren<\/strong>, Black-faced Solitare<\/strong>, Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush<\/strong>, Common Chlorospingus<\/strong>, White-naped<\/strong> and Chestnut-capped Brushfinch<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

There are many hummingbirds near the hotel, including the tiny Scintillant Hummingbird<\/strong>, Lesser Violetear<\/strong> and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

And we could go on about the birds in Boquete.<\/p>\n

\"Scintilliant

Scintilliant Hummingbird (male). Finca Lerida, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Flame-colored

Flame-colored Tanager (male). Finca Lerida, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Fuglekigning

Birdwatching in the forest. Finca Lerida, Boquete, Panam\u00e1.<\/p><\/div>\n

Alle photos and video \u00a9 Bente Steffensen & Uffe Damm Andersen, unless otherwise stated.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

From the heat to the cold We weren\u2019t the only ones who chose to spend Christmas 2018 in Boquete. As it turned out, Boquete is the place you go up to, for weekends and holidays. During Christmas, it is not L\u00e6s mere… \/ Read More…<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3068,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-3088","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-birding-en","category-latinamerican-timeout","category-panama-en","category-travel-en","tag-birdwatching-en","tag-christmas-day","tag-christmas-day-en"],"yoast_head":"\nBirding Boquete \u2013 Quetzals, a Becard and Christmas traffic - Albicilla Explorer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/albicillaexplorer.com\/en\/birding-boquete-quetzals-becard-christmas-traffic\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Birding Boquete \u2013 Quetzals, a Becard and Christmas traffic - Albicilla Explorer\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"From the heat to the cold We weren\u2019t the only ones who chose to spend Christmas 2018 in Boquete. 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